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Best Italian Ways: On and Off the Rails from Milan to Palermo By Tim Parks

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Italian Ways: On and Off the Rails from Milan to Palermo-Tim Parks

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“So inviting you might find yourself tempted to give the experience a whirl and ride the Italian trains yourself, book in hand.”—Liesl Schillinger, New York Times Book ReviewTim Parks’s books on Italy have been hailed as "so vivid, so packed with delectable details, [they] serve as a more than decent substitute for the real thing" (Los Angeles Times Book Review). Now, in his first Italian travelogue in a decade, he delivers a charming and funny portrait of Italian ways by riding its trains from Verona to Milan, Rome to Palermo, and right down to the heel of Italy.Parks begins as any traveler might: "A train is a train is a train, isn’t it?" But soon he turns his novelist’s eye to the details, and as he journeys through majestic Milano Centrale station or on the newest high-speed rail line, he delivers a uniquely insightful portrait of Italy. Through memorable encounters with ordinary Italians—conductors and ticket collectors, priests and prostitutes, scholars and lovers, gypsies and immigrants—Parks captures what makes Italian life distinctive: an obsession with speed but an acceptance of slower, older ways; a blind eye toward brutal architecture amid grand monuments; and an undying love of a good argument and the perfect cappuccino.Italian Ways also explores how trains helped build Italy and how their development reflects Italians’ sense of themselves from Garibaldi to Mussolini to Berlusconi and beyond. Most of all, Italian Ways is an entertaining attempt to capture the essence of modern Italy. As Parks writes, "To see the country by train is to consider the crux of the essential Italian dilemma: Is Italy part of the modern world, or not?"

Book Italian Ways: On and Off the Rails from Milan to Palermo Review :



How do others see us? What makes that question so interesting? Perhaps it's the fact that strangers are willing to take an objective look at the character flaws we tend to ignore on the theory that it's best to let well enough alone. When the stains build up to the point where it's time to take our national persona to the cleaner, along comes a book that does just that. Francesco Liberti's "An Italian in America (2001) did just that in a friendly, tongue in cheek way. Now Tim Parks, an Englishman who has lived the last 30 years of his life in Italy, has done much the same for that country. Call it a travel book, cultural anthropology, or memoir -- it's more than a little of each - "Italian Ways Off and On the Rails from Milan to Palermo" belongs on every first time traveler's to Italy reading list, particularly if the trip involves train travel. As one whose Italian travel came before "Italian Ways" was published, reading it, I often wished that I had had the benefit of it as we tried to find the right platform for the 4:10 to Verona, and similar puzzles in other stations.Parks, who has written other accounts of Italian ways, knows the country and its people as well as anyone from away could hope to. He brings all his experience to bear in this pleasantly readable, highly knowledgeable book. Structured as a before and after account, dealing both with the pre-modern train travel that endeared Parks to rail travel, and then the streamlined, far less personal, assigned seat version that replaced (most of) it beginning in the late 2000's, that found him wishing for the old days.The account is generously sprinkled with the ups and downs of his experiences on Trenitalia. He does not hesitate to tell stories on himself including "my last and greatest bust-up with a "capotreno" (conductor/ticket checker/ ultimate authority). As you might guess, it involved the fine print that pulled the rug out from under the validity of his internet-issued ticket. The outcome convinced him that such arguments weren't worth it. He explains: "this whole culture of ambiguous rules, then heated argument about them without any clear-cut result, seems to serve to draw you into a mind-set of vendetta and resentment that saps energy from every other area of life."Parks' epilogue sets forth his affectionate ode to Treinitalia and all the men and women who serve it and offers a bouquet to "any passenger with a book in his hand, any man or woman following the lines on a page, perhaps these very lines, as the wheels follow the rails across the landscape, hurrying forward through the world yet not quite part of it. What a beautiful respite a train journey is and a good book too, and best of all the book on the train, in life and out of it at the same time . . ."Epilogue. "Italian Ways" is very much in the tradition of "Village in the Vaucluse", the book by Harvard professor Laurence Wylie who took his wife and two small children to live in the small Provencal village of Roussillon (which he calls Peyrane) in 1950. The book about their experiences is haunting, sympathetic, and revelatory of a way of life that is all but gone, if not completely so. We owe Parks for making sure that there is a similarly fine and richly detailed account of an aspect of Italian life that now exists only at the edges.
I bought this prior to a trip to Italy, it scared me - maybe unnecessarily, in that in my train ride, in spite of a run to catch the train, and failures validate my ticket, I encountered no official who cared. And I did spend my time making up hapless lost tourist excuses that I never needed.I enjoyed his descriptions of the people encountered and hoped that my encounter with a Nigerian in Florence (who turned out to be from Kenya) would be an actual encounter of people rather than a hustle which of, course it was, both.So I wouldn’t recommend this book as a travel guide, it did influence my travel and was interesting and I might recommend it to friends who like trains, or Italy or both.

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Best Italian Ways: On and Off the Rails from Milan to Palermo By Tim Parks Rating: 4.5 Diposkan Oleh: lorenmal

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